"Autumn: The Season Begins for Organic Gardening"
A presentation to the PHGSC on Sept. 4, 2007 by Wendy Krupnick*.... pictures

Introductory points:
• Fall is the easiest, most productive time to grow a garden.
• Warm season vegetables have a 4-month window for production, while cool season veggie gardens can have up to six months of harvest, and also enjoy the benefits of fewer pests and less need to irrigate.
• Thanksgiving to January is the “dark period” when most things in our climate stop maturing – except for cabbage, cauliflower and related plants.
• Remember that the “days to maturity” schedule usually refers to a warm weather/extended- sunlight growing season. Expect and plan for longer maturity cycles.

Strategies:
• Plant cool season vegetables early enough so they are near to maturity in the dark period.
• Plant more (especially leafy) vegetables than you would in the summer because harvesting is less likely to result in replacement growth due to cooler temperatures and less sun.
• Plant different varieties at the same time so they mature at different times.

Tips:
• The only way to know exactly what works in your garden is to keep records that note the plant variety, planting dates, first harvest and last harvest. Do this for three years; the weather may change, but not the day length, which is the most important variable.
• Reverse watering wisdom and water cool-season vegetables mid to late afternoon in order to create a micro climate for the plant, especially new young plants in the fall when the temps are still high. Watering them in the late afternoon/evening helps to “de-stress” the plants because cool season plants do not like the heat. Warm season crops are better watered in the morning, as late water will cool them further in our cool summer evenings.
• During the rainy season, mulch in your garden paths with straw or other available mulch to reduce erosion, compaction and keep mud down if paths aren’t already paved.
• Cool season vegetables are frost tolerant, but you can keep them a little warmer, and protect more tender plants, by using floating row covers. They can keep insects and the birds out as well.

Some plant specifics:
• Carrot and beet seeds should get into the ground by early September.
• Snap peas are best as you get to eat both seed and pod – and be sure to wait until the seed is mature inside the pod.
• Savoy cabbage is not only tasty, but also a pretty plant.
• All cabbage close relatives are shallow-rooted, heavy feeders that should be transplanted deep, with soil built up around the base.
• Plant lettuce in the spaces between cabbage or cauliflower plants. It will be harvested before the cabbage fills in. Spinach seeds can be sown regularly from early September to early October, but be alert to harvest them when they’re ready because they’ll go to flower quickly as the winter days lengthen.
• Escarole and endive are sweet and at their flavorful best in winter.
• Spicy greens are good for salads as baby plants, and good for cooking when mature.
• Alfalfa hay mulch on garlic plants will add needed nitrogen and contains no weed seed.

Soil basics:
• Soil is “alive.” It has macro-organisms such as worms, and thousands of micro-organisms that have complex and beneficial interactions with roots.
• Chemical fertilizers don’t allow the natural soil organism to do their job; this results in weakened plants and the need for more pest control, which then requires more fertilizer; it’s a nasty cycle.
• It is better to feed compost to these soil organisms, which then feed the plants and build up immunity to pests.

Soil suggestions:
• Autumn is the best time to have your soil lab-tested (better than home test kits), because this is also the best time of year to add any nutrients shown to be needed by the test.
• Loosen the soil by inserting a garden fork and moving it slightly. This allows for better drainage and gives soil organisms a better chance to do their job.
• After you finally dig up those tomato and pepper plants, protect the soil by planting nutrient-rich cover crops (such as clover) or by mulching (even with newspaper or cardboard covered with manure, etc).
• Don’t mulch vegetable gardens with uncomposted wood chips because they take too long to decompose and steal nitrogen.

*Wendy Krupnick, an organic gardener for 30+ years, teaches Master Gardener vegetable classes for Sonoma County and coordinated the market garden at Santa Rosa Junior College, where she’s an adjunct faculty member. She previously worked as senior horticultural advisor for Shepherd’s Garden Seed Company.

More on this topic was also published in the PHGSC’s March 2007 Flower Press. You can also find a Master Gardener planting calendar and recommended vegetables for planting in interior Contra Costa County at http://ccmg.ucdavis.edu/vegetable.htm.

Pictures of the April 2007 PHGSC Display at PH Library
lobby cabinet display	Membership info	Flyers for the Plant Sale
PHGSC President Marc Kiefer in front of cabinet display with Phil Grieg's arrangement		More PHGSC arrangements on display

April 3, 2007 Membership Meeting
Kathy Echols,  DVC Horticulture, “Garden Myths”
   We do things in the garden out of habit, belief, or because we were taught that way. Are they practical, efficient or useful?
   In an entertaining presentation at our April meeting, Kathy Echols dispelled a lot of useless or senseless garden myths, i.e. bareroot season buying, use of Vitamin B1, what really is in manure, not using specialty fertilizers, etc..
   As many of our members already know, Kathy is a driving force in the Horticulture Department at DVC, where she’s been teaching for 16 years. Kathy is in charge of DVC’s plant sales, and she teaches classes in propagation, plant production, greenhouse and nursery practices, and the identification of plants new to the trade each season. In addition to plant propagation, Kathy’s chief specialties are drought tolerant and Australian plants.   
   Trying to be “nice” to our plants can be useless or worse. 
   For example, when planting bare root fruit trees, many people add vitamin B1 and redwood mulch. However, the tree pores are too small for B1 molecules to enter (although a zinc additive in the vitamin can help a little), she said.
   And backfilling the hole with removed soil is better than mulch, which inhibits roots from establishing themselves deeply, said Kathy. “It’s better for your plants to try hard to get into the regular soil.” She cautioned against tilling for that reason, but did advise composting.
   Also, it’s not good to stake trees tightly, she noted, since they’ll grow stronger if they sway in the wind.
   Back to wood mulches… they steal nitrogen from your plants, so add fertilizer if needed. “Nitrogenated” mulch is misleading because it has only a whiff of nitrogen, Kathy said.
   The cheapest source of nitrogen is urea, Kathy indicated. A byproduct of petroleum refining, it is organic and good for soil – but don’t get it on your plants.
   Lawn clippings or alfalfa pellets are a fine way to add nitrogen to wood chips, Kathy said, adding that roses like alfalfa’s nitrogen, too.
   She also advised nitrogen and not bone meal for bulbs, to encourage season after season of lovely flowers.
   A good fertilizer with nitrogen (in the form of urea) is chicken manure, but use it sparingly, Kathy said. Steer
manure contains salt and probably should be avoided, she noted.
   Her final advice: go beyond what you hear from retailers, try new things, and use the Internet for answers
.
March 6, 2007  Membership Meeting
“Water in the Garden: Focal Pieces; Cooling Places”  Bobbi Feyerabend, www.fmlanddesign.com
   An intimate Mediterranean garden can feel very lush with a small fountain to add charm and humidity.
   So said Bobbi Feyerabend, the landscape designer who has worked with several of our members and given us previous – and splendid – presentations on other topics.
   Bobbi talked about why water is an asset to a garden, and her slide show provided examples of how water can be worked into various garden settings.
   Fountains of all types may be purchased, of course, but Bobbi will also give some ideas on how individuals can build their own attractive water feature.
   A principal at Feyerabend & Madden Landscape Design, Emeryville, Bobbi’s entire career has been in the field of landscape horticulture.
   Recently, two of her firm’s residential designs in Walnut Creek won prestigious awards. The company’s garden designs have also appeared on television and in printed publications. Examples of her firm's work can be seen on her web site.www.fmlanddesign.com

What:             We learned a simple and inexpensive way to get new plants for your garden, to share with your friends, but most importantly, for our annual plant sale on May 12, 2007           

Who:               Members of the PHGSC

When:             Sunday March 4th      1PM – 4PM

Where:            Lynn & Rocco Grassano’s residence... more details on workhsop... 

   It was camellia season, and new member Bob Ehrhart invited us to visit his garden of 2000+ camellias while many of them are in bloom.  Bob has been growing camellias for 40 years. He is past president of the American Camellia Society and active in the Northern California chapter. The Chapter's Annual Show was held at the PH Community Center on March 10 and 11.
   We were graciously hosted by Bob and his wife.. and we met the "real" Bob... a man enthusiastically devoted to his camellias. We saw 700+ camellia varieties, all in pots, on a hillside acre in Walnut Creek spanning his "backyard" and portions of 3 of his neighbors.
   We learned about camellia propagation grafting, seedlings & cuttings; and numerous insights on culture, potting and pruning.
    A very enjoyable afternoon by all... Thank you Bob.

February 6, 2007 Membership Meeting ...pictures
 “Creating your own Garden Paradise”
 Aerin Moore of Magic Gardens, Berkeley  www.magicgardens.com 
Garden Paradise Begins with Logical Steps, Proper Care of Plants........ (from Flower Press)
   Think ahead before creating the garden of your dreams, advised Aerin Moore at our February meeting.
   Start with pictures of the look you’re seeking, he said. And then:
      Plan your plantings – know your plants’ bloom or foliage colors and the seasons they will be colorful, how tall
your seedlings will grow, what plants will need sun or shade, and which plants to group together for watering.
      Ready the site – remove unwanted growth; thin trees for dappled light.
      Grade properly – good drainage is absolutely essential.
      Move earth effectively – build mounds from earth displaced by grading.
      Add inviting hardscape – it will be very visible when plants are dormant.
      Regulate irrigation – have enough separate water lines to satisfy the differing thirst needs of your plants.
      Prepare the soil – amend clay with compost and gritty material.
      Start planting – dig a hole 1 1/2 times the width of the container, but not too deep; the plant’s crown should be
           two inches above the grade.
      Mulch – use a nutritive mulch that will decompose into the soil.
   Among Moore’s additional tips for delightful gardening were these:
      • Curves and mounds in your garden path will add interest.
      • Mounds create micro-climates:  plants needing better drainage go on top; those needing more water,
         at the base.
      • Feel free to move plants around until you get the look you want.

    For more information on Moore and his work, go to his business website, www.magicgardens.com.

... above... members and guests present for the February meeting for Aerin Moore presentation......

January 2, 2007 Membership Meeting
“Our Mediterranean Climate”

Sean O’Hara   www.hortulusaptus.com
   Only about 2 percent of the earth’s surface has a Mediterranean climate – the mild temperatures, rainy winters and sunny summers that we experience, according to Seán O’Hara, our January program presenter.

   This weather pattern allows people to enjoy an agreeable indoor/outdoor lifestyle, O’Hara said, while plants adapt in a variety of ways. They “mound” to trap air and water. They have evergreen, leathery foliage that saves energy (no need to produce new leaves every year) or gray foliage that reflects light. They go to seed or go dormant when the hot weather arrives.

O’Hara admitted that most Mediterranean gardeners, especially in California, cling to the use of some water during dry summers, but he knows of one man who relies entirely upon the weather and has a garden of hardy plants as a result.

   “In most Mediterranean climates, water is treasured and respected because it’s a precious item,” O’Hara observed, adding: “Lawns are probably the most water-wasteful, resource-wasteful thing you can plant.”   

   He advocated avoiding most chemicals most of the time by bringing your garden into balance.  And he advised: “Demand more Mediterranean plants from your nurseries.”